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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.